Nyonya, or Peranakan (descendant), heritage is something which is quite unique. The word “nyonya” is a respectful Indonesian/Malay term for a lady, and “baba” refers to the male. Born of Chinese (typically Hokkien) immigrants who settled in various parts of South East Asia centuries ago, this group assimilated into local societies by adopting their practices, cuisines and even language, eventually evolving into a separate distinct culture of its own. In Malaysia, they congregated in what became known as the British Straits Settlements: Singapore, Melaka and Penang, and are sometimes referred to as the Straits Chinese.

As Penang is so close to the northern border, nyonya food eaten here has distinct Thai influences. Much use is made of strong flavours like chillies, coconut, tamarind, herbs and spices, including the “aromatic” ubiquitous belacan (pronounced belachan), a fermented prawn paste. Apart from noodle dishes, most are eaten with plain boiled rice to do justice to the delicious flavours.

Gulai Assam Tumis (Fish in a Spicy Sour Curry)

This is a popular gulai (curry) made with a rempah (paste) of finely-minced onions, garlic, lemon grass, belacan and chilli which is then fried in oil (tumis) until fragrant. A light solution of tamarind and water is mixed in, then fish, the most popular being mackerel, stingray, or black pomfret. Vegetables like Ladies’ Fingers, tomatoes and brinjal (aubergine) can also be included. A local herb with small aromatic leaves called Daun Kesom, also known as Vietnamese Coriander, adds a gorgeous fragrance, and it is usually served adorned with fresh mint.

Locals love it and so will you especially if you like sour-based curries like Tom Yam.