One morning, we visited the downtown Shuyuanmen pedestrian street, where miniature replicas of Terracotta Warriors, shadow puppets made of donkey hide and other souvenirs are displayed next to calligraphers bent over huge desks scripting ancient classics.

We were too tired to head to the renowned Muslim snack street several blocks away. So we entered a restaurant serving roujiamo (pancakes stuffed with minced meat).

The pancake was fragrant and crispy, and the meat had a special flavor, because it was made from good pork stewed for a long time. Customers waited patiently on the streets outside the restaurant.

My gourmet friends all congratulated me for stumbling upon one of the best eateries offering roujiamo.

"If you went there after noon, the waiter would proudly tell you: 'We've sold out all our pancakes'."

Then, why can't they make more, and even sell the pancakes to other cities?

Tradition holds that the pancakes and meat made and eaten in the morning are the best. The restaurant is more concerned about maintaining quality than drawing more customers, my friends explain.

Too bad Beijing doesn't have such a fresh delicacy. But it gives me something to long for upon return.