The kitchen is now headed by Chef Kheong who came on board recently. “Our neighbours were Baba Nyonya,” he explained, “and we used to love the smells emanating from their kitchen!” Drooling after the food wasn’t all he did; he also learnt how to cook many of the dishes from them.

However, like some of the newer Nyonya restaurants in town, some of the food here has been “fused” with other regional dishes, and served in a more contemporary manner.

Take the Four Seasons starter, for example. Instead of a large centre platter, it’s presented as four portions on each individual plate: Otak Otak, Jiu Hu Char, Lor Bak, and a kerabu of sorts. I rather like the modern take, as it allows you to sample different dishes without overindulging. The Tu Tor T’ng, a tasty soup made from innards, is also served in small bowls.

As Nyonya food is usually hot and spicy, it’s better eaten with plain white rice, so the main course remains more traditional with a variety of dishes served together: the Tu Khar Chor, trotters braised in black vinegar, was very palatable, as was the Steamed Fish Nyonya Style — fresh, firm tautay (white pomfret) over which a spicy, slightly sweet assam pedas rempah has been poured. The Hwan Choo Heok (sweet potato leaves) fried with sambal was good.