Brazilian food gains popularity in China

(Source: Internet)

"Mmm. It's tasty," said Ricardo Lima, a Brazilian soccer player, as he dug into his food at Latina, a Brazilian restaurant in Chaoyang district, Beijing.

"It's very authentic. I like it," he said, grinning.

Surprised that he can get authentic Brazilian food in China, Lima is happy that he has found somewhere that can help assuage his cravings whenever he misses home.

Brazilian food in China does not only appeal to Brazilians; it also has a considerable following among people from other countries.

Beijinger Emily Wang wandered into the restaurant with her colleagues and instantly fell in love with the food.

"This is my very first time trying these things," said Wang as she stuck her fork into pão de queijo, a kind of cheese bread that is popular all over Brazil. "The cakes are in the shape of mini-balls, and I heard from one of the cooks that they are made with eggs, cheese, and tapioca, and are cooked as hot air enters. No wonder it is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. It's like my taste buds have traveled to a completely different world."

Lima and Wang are not alone. Many people enjoy Brazilian food because of its unique flavors. Also, by introducing new flavors to the local community, Brazilian food plays an increasingly visible role in facilitating closer ties between China and Brazil by way of the kitchen.

A taste of Brazil

Like Lima, many Brazilians in China, and even some Chinese foodies, are grateful that they do not have to go all the way to Brazil to taste authentic Brazilian cuisine.

"The specialty is beef hump and bean stewed with pork," said Zhao Yangyang, the sous chef at Brazilian Churrascos inside V-Continent Beijing Parkview Wuzhou Hotel.

According to Zhao, the food is cooked and served in the authentic Brazilian way. "The most distinctive feature of Brazilian food is that they respect the original taste of the ingredients without adding too many kinds of spice," Zhao explained.

Taking beef hump as an example, Zhao said it is salted and left to marinate in a refrigerator overnight with diced carrots, celery, onion, pepper, myrcia, and cachaca before it is roasted for around 10 minutes, wrapped in tinfoil and then grilled in residual heat.

"Aside from myrcia, which is the only spice needed, the other ingredients are mainly vegetables, so the maximum possible original taste of the meat is preserved," he said.

Claude Cerbolles, the area manager for the Latina food chain, agreed. He said authentic Brazilian food preparation usually involves slow cooking the meat to get maximum flavor, which is the original cooking method in Brazil. He said every effort is taken to maintain authenticity, even with the meat cuts.

"The beef needs to be imported because oxen in China are smaller and we need a good-sized beef hump portion," said Pei Pei, the marketing communications manager at the V-Continent.

Commenting on why Brazilian barbecue is received relatively well in China, she said the reason is that it caters to Chinese tastes and customs. "Brazilian barbecue can satisfy people's desire for eating a large amount of meat (the meat is usually cut into big chunks) and drinking a lot of beer, so it is heaven for people who love eating meat, though it can be too much for girls," she explained.

When dining in a Brazilian restaurant, even the way the food is presented has a distinct Brazilian flair. For example, when serving beef hump, the cook would take it to the guests' table and cut it right in front of them, just like they would do it in Brazil, Pei said.

"In this way, guests can choose the part they would like to eat and taste the freshness of the meat," she said.

The authentic tableside service also allows for a better enjoyment of the meal, as the cooks have an opportunity to interact with the guests and can make recommendations for them to try.

"When I cut the meat tableside, I would tell my guests how to enjoy the meat with different sauces," said Zhao.

Bean stewed with pork, another Brazilian specialty, has also found a following among Chinese diners. Pigtail, pig's feet and ears are the main ingredients, and they are cooked with black beans for around two hours before the dish is served.

Wang said that she found the taste mouthwatering. "Maybe it's because I grew up eating luzhu (a traditional snack in Beijing with chitterlings and pig lungs in it) and chaogan'r (fried liver, another traditional Beijing snack). The taste is quite similar."

(Source: Internet)

Good food, friendly environment

Aside from the delicious food, diners told Metropolitan that they were also impressed by the warmth and enthusiasm exuded by the cooks.

Zhao said he loves his job a lot. He started to learn how to cook Brazilian food in 2006 and gradually fell in love with the lively, welcoming atmosphere.

"I have been doing my job for 10 years now, and I never thought about quitting," Zhao said. "I like the Brazilian cooking method. Every time the meat is roasted, I need to rotate it all the time, and it feels like my hands and feet are dancing around. It's just like I'm boxing."

He especially enjoys sharing his delicious food with guests. "I feel very warm when my guests appreciate the flavor of the food. It's a big yes for my effort," Zhao said.

For Brazilian cooks who live and work in China, preparing a meal in the Middle Kingdom has an even deeper meaning - it's like recreating a piece of home.

Wellington Oliveira De Melo, a chef at Latina, has been working in China for 12 years and sometimes misses home. Cooking Brazilian food helps ease his nostalgia. When he is cooking, he feels emotionally close to home. "I would also eat some Brazilian food when I miss my family. The taste would make me feel at home," he said.

Culinary diplomacy

The popularity of Brazilian food in China not only caters to its people but also plays a role in developing the relations between Brazil and China.

For Cerbolles, the restaurant is a gathering place for people to experience Brazilian elements in Beijing. He said Chinese people love barbecue and as more Chinese travel abroad, they are more open to new culinary experiences and ethnic cuisines.

He said that many people go the restaurant to eat, talk, and be exposed to Brazilian elements, including Brazilian people, Brazilian-style decoration, and, of course, Brazilian food.

Pei is grateful to the World Cup and the 2016 Rio Olympic Games for renewing local awareness of Brazil, its culture, and its food.

"On the day of the opening ceremony, there was a long queue at the entrance," Pei said. "Many people came here to enjoy authentic Brazilian food while they watched the Olympic Games."

Sitting in front of a TV broadcast of the Rio Olympics, Wang looks up at the ceiling which is decorated in the Brazilian style then looks at "Brazilian hall of fame" where photos of Brazilian celebrities are displayed, immersing herself in the Brazilian atmosphere.

"I feel lucky to be able to get so close to Brazilian elements in Beijing. When you step through the door, everything is about Brazil, yet physically you are still in China," Wang said. "I am addicted to the surreal feeling."