Long Weekend: Sevilla

I’d like you to take a moment, close your eyes and conjure up an image of Spain. I don’t mean the naff Costa del Sol nonsense, or the ‘so cool you could be anywhere’ feel of Barcelona, but the real Spain, where the air is thick with a heady mixture of orange blossom and cured ham, fiery emotions are forever bubbling behind dark, expressive eyes, and impromptu outbursts of flamenco pepper the hot, endless nights.

And that, dear readers, is Sevilla, a city to lose yourself in and surrender to its hypnotising magic. But to do so you must leave behind your cool, urbane self and embrace the heart of the city, which are the orange tree-lined streets and shady plazas that pulse with life throughout the year until the early hours. You see ‘Sevillanos’ live in the streets, and I don’t mean in a ‘no fixed abode’ type way, but in a ‘why hang out inside pokey bars when you have a gigantic open space called the city to enjoy?’

Sevilla has played host to a series of contrasting cultures from its Roman origins, followed by 500 years of Islamic occupation, and culminating in the Christian reconquest in the 13th century. The city’s architecture reflects its diverse history, no more so than The Cathedral built under the Christians, but housing the Moorish minaret known as the Giralda. Nearby you can also visit the stunningly beautiful Alcázar Palace, which, despite its decidedly Islamic appearance, dates almost entirely from the Christian period, before heading up to the Barrio Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, where you can while away hours losing yourself in the bewildering network of narrow streets, book-ended by verdant, forgotten plazas.

If your legs can’t carry you any further you can hop into one of the plethora of horses and traps which will transport you to the further flung notable landmarks, such as Plaza de España, originally a site for burning heretics, but now a vast, ornate plaza designed to celebrate the Latin Iberico Fair in 1929. And while you’re there it’s the perfect opportunity to wander around Parque Maria Luisa, where gargantuan trees and an elaborate network of fountains provide the perfect respite from the often unbearable heat of summer. And don’t forget to hop across the river to the working class neighbourhood of Triana, once home to the gypsy community, it holds a special magic all of its own.

And to finish off your day and further soak up the intense mix of cultural influences that make up modern day Sevilla, a visit to Casa de la Memoria is a must to enjoy some top quality flamenco, performed by award winning young artists in an intimate 15th Century converted palace. However, it’s not for a rowdy sangria supping crowd (if you fall in that category then you´re best heading to the Carboneria in Santa Cruz), so only go if you are ready to lose yourself completely (and soberly) in the intense, visceral passion of the art.

There are two main events that mark the Sevillian calendar: Semana Santa (Easter) and The April Fair. If over-the-top, medieval religious festivals aren’t your bag, then it’s Feria de Abril all the way. In a nutshell ‘La Feria’ is a six day drinking and dancing marathon where the women dress up in vibrant flamenco dresses, everyone drinks rebujito (a mixture of manzanilla sherry and lemonade) by the gallon, immaculate horses parade around ridden by men carrying the aforementioned flamenco-dressed women behind them, and multi-generational families enjoy the traditional dance of Sevillanas until they drop.

Sounds like fun right? There is one catch: all this takes place inside over 1,000 colourful, wooden marquees (casetas), most of which are private, so if you just rock up, you’ll be left with the feeling that there’s a great party going on and you haven’t been invited. But that’s where Not Just A Tourist come in. Sign up to one of their Feria tours and as well as giving you the low down on the event’s origins and history, they’ll also make the experience that bit more memorable by getting you into a selection of casetas where you can quaff rebujito and eat tapas til your heart’s content, away from the heaving masses.