Shanghai is a city in which people love hairy crab very much. When autumn comes, the Shanghainese will have a hairy crab feast. For the way to eat hairy crab, the best one is using "eight-piece cutlery specially for eating crabs" which are tools used when eating crabs, including little knife, little pincette, little scraper and little hammer.

The custom of "female crabs in September and male crabs in October" is popular among Shanghainese, which means female crabs shall be eaten in September during which the crab cream is the most and male crabs shall be eaten in October during which the crab paste is the fattest. Drinking wine is necessary when eating hairy crabs; and the best match is a yellow wine called "Guihuami", which is made by adding the newly-plucked sweet osmanthus; the wine shall be heated for drinking while eating crabs. Seasoning is also particular. Vinegar must be Zhenjiang vinegar, particular the old Zhenjiang vinegar which will not be so tart that the feeling to crabs of taste bud is affected.

The hairy crab popular in Shanghai refers to "Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crab". The hairy crabs of Yangcheng Lake are of larger size, beautiful taste and good quality, thus being rewarded "king of crabs"; it enjoys great fame. During weekends or holidays in autumn, at least over 1000 cars carrying "crab-eating group" run on the way from Shanghai to Yangcheng Lake everyday; groups of people flow to Yangcheng Lake and eat crabs with friends. The "Yangcheng Lake Food Travel" in each autumn has almost become a ceremony similar to worship.