Hot and cold: how to spend a summer holiday in Swedish Lapland

Lapland isn’t just for Christmas – summertime in the Swedish region reveals many delights

Standing on the edge of a wooden pier over the Torne River, I pull the large fishing net out of the fast-flowing water – and it’s empty again. I’m trying to catch a fish in the traditional way – using a large net on the end of a long pole that reaches far beyond the riverbank.

Whitefish and salmon are common in this Arctic region during the early summer months, but after several attempts, I’ve been unsuccessful at catching anything.

The river marks the border between Sweden and Finland’s Lapland regions. Just hearing the word Lapland conjures up thoughts of snowy landscapes, starry nights and the bright aurora striking across the sky, but those scenes are hard to imagine as I look out over a river that’s roaring with rapids, lined with bright green grass and leafy deciduous trees.

What to eat in Swedish Lapland

Fishing is just one of the many activities to enjoy in Swedish Lapland over the summer, and the tourist centre on the banks of the Torne River at the Kukkolaforsen rapids offers a way for visitors to access this experience.

It’s an activity that requires patience, but those who practise this type of fishing aren’t doing it to catch an abundance. Local laws carry restrictions on how many fish can be caught, and salmon are much larger at this southern end of the river – before they embark on their epic journey upstream, which can take several months.

At Kukkolaforsen, there’s also a fishing museum that teaches travellers more about catching fish with a dip net, alongside a hotel, campsite and cottages, plus a restaurant that overlooks the river and a chance to dine in a timber smoke hut.

These little lodges are traditionally used as gathering points, with small windows and a chimney for the open fire at the centre – which is used to cook our (pre-caught) salmon and potatoes.

In winter, the huts provide a cosy respite from the cold, while in summer, they’re a break from the mosquitoes that can be found near the river.

Midnight sun in Swedish Lapland

Swedish Lapland has long been associated with winter holidays, as people flock here for the snowy activities as well as to cross the Finnish border to pay Santa Claus a visit in his fabled hometown.

But summer here carries a different type of magic – pleasant temperatures of up to 20C and thriving nature accompany the midnight sun, a big draw for visitors to the region, particularly around the time of the Midsummer festival in June.

Usually, 10.30pm would be late to set off for a walk, but even though the sun was concealed by clouds when we went out, you could be fooled into thinking it was the middle of the day.

If clients are worried about disturbing their circadian rhythms by visiting during a time of 24‑hour daylight, fear not: hotels and lodges are well set up with blackout blinds to help block the sun’s rays.

Sámi experience in Swedish Lapland

The seasons in the north of Sweden change quickly.

The Sámi – the Indigenous people of this region – split their calendar into eight seasons, which helps reflect the distinct transitions between them. Nature and wildlife are integral to the Sámi way of life, and these seasonal shifts are seen on the ground as well as in the sky.

“The forest is a resource,” says Pia Huuva, co‑founder of Sámi retreat Huuva Hideaway. “But the Sámi philosophy is that you don’t take more than you need.”

Pia and her husband Henry run experiences to educate visitors on Sámi culture and cuisine, deep in the forest in Övertorneå. We try our hand at foraging, looking diligently at the flora beneath us to find some pretty shoots to decorate our table for lunch as well as garnish our drinks, before sitting down to enjoy some local delicacies.

Pickled herring and reindeer blood pancakes are on the menu, accompanied by fresh lingonberry juice – and it’s all delicious. Sitting outside, with rays of sunlight streaming through the trees, it’s clear there’s more to Swedish Lapland than just the winter.